Tuesday, December 13, 2016

1/32 Hellenic Air Force F16C Zeus III DEMO

I was told by my friend in Taiwan that the Fencer will not stand a chance in Moson in April 2017. So I have to start work on something that will work, hopefully. So, I have been planning this project for sometime. Somehow, Dimitris from Greece who painted the real aircraft decided to help me out with the reference photos. Thanks Dimitris.

For starters, I need two kits for this one model, but since I have the Academy F16I Sufa, I need a single seater that will fit the CFTs. So, I ended up with 2 kits for one model! MUSIC STARTO.......I got a Sufa, I buy an F16CJ, URGH.......Zeus III.


Set back by another hundred bucks

First thing I have to do is to mix up the specific colours that I will need.

First part is to paint the conformal tanks.

Feathers coming in. Tamiya Masking film.


Masking went on for the feathers.

I tore up the front part in order to start on the painting of the falcons.

To make sure the tanks are easily assembled as the painting will be very complex later. I added 3 layers of Evergreen strips.

Test Fitting the CFTs to make sure the alignment is correct.

First up is to paint in the base for the beaks in black.

Then I have to do a mirror image of the white base on which I can paint the falcon. I cut up a 0.3mm Tamiya plastic card to the shape that I need and hold it in place and dusted the area in white.

All masks removed. Now I am ready to suffer!

Next thing I have to do is to put in the base for the eyes. Black on the white base.

Let the suffering begin....the fun part.

The Falcon after red, sepia, black, brown, white, yellow, orange, blue and greys......now its time to do the other side.

It is a challenge to make the other side in mirror image. I marked in the yellow then the browns etc in the similar sequence and I have done on the other side.

Lightning was painted in and a light sandpaper used to cover the falcon to prevent slipping, the outline outer glow is put in with low pressure.

 Tried to make out as close as possible.Now the left side is ready for the outer glow as well as the lightning bolts. 

The lightning marked in with Vallejo Ivory, 3 coats to make it solid. The start spark is paint in by hand. Airbrushed the centre and then touched up with hand painting again. Outer glow borders also sprayed in with sky blue. I sprayed matte Mr. Colour Clear over the falcons to protect them from masking later.

And I left the right wing tank tapes on as the Greek flag that flies across it, flies below those feathers. So, I left that part for later. Test fitting looks ok.

Some black wash was pinned in by using Tamiya black wash with a size Zero brush. This is to make sure the mesh looks llike a mesh with less reflectivity compared to the rest of the solid panels.

The fitting of the two halves are warped. So, some ribs needed to be cut off in order for the halves to fit nicely and they are done with CA glue.

In some pictures, I find that the planes tow along a travel pod. I looked up as Dimitris told me to, its made by Cobham and the model I wanted to match the photographs was the MXU486. I found only one manufacturer in this 1/32 scale. AMS. Problem is, its sold out all over the place. One guy on ebay can let us have it for US$12.99 but the shipping for this 20grams of resin is US$25.80....what????? I got fed up. So, I drew my own and then have it transferred into AutoCAD and then 3D printed 4 pcs for US$3 of printer toners. Yeah....eat your heart out sucker!
I painted the nozzle in ceramics and weathered on the inside and on the outside, I painted in Titanium Vallejo metals. Then I put in the AK Creams, Aluminum, Steel, Gold, Blue, Violet. So I get the metal base. All happy go lucky for my Pratt and Whitney F100-229 till I get a message from Dimitris that its wrong! OMG! The actual one is actually Carbon Fibre!


So I meshed it with my 1/35 Voyager Panther tank mesh. Black and smokes.

I over exposed this picture so that the details show up more clearly than it actually is.

Attaching to the bodywork. There are some fit issues. So, I used the Tamiya 2mm flexible vinyl tape as well and masking tape to protect the metal parts and started our liquid puttying and material removals to make the parts flush. I also drilled in the rivets using 0.4mm drill bits before the great demolition. Now the fun should begin soon.




Tuesday, November 29, 2016

1/48 Trumpeter Su 24 Fencer Part 2

Many guys said to me that the XXXX is out of shape...the YYYY is not in the right position, the sides of the front fuselage is all wrong....yeah right....lets see if we get everything right and then put them next to my shitty plane that is all wrong and see if anyone really cared much about it besides only the saliva glue modelers.

Really, I do not really care about crap like this. I take a kit, build it up to the best of my ability, sit back and look at it and see my progress over the previous model. This is the most important for me.

Time to put on the decals for the bottom and the stencils. Boy do I hate stencils.

I did not melt the decals with my special source and I intend to do that only after I am done washing it with dark blue and brown washes.

Lots of scrubbing and washes to get the emblems to blend into the wing.

Application of dark blue followed by brown wash materials and left aside to dry for 4 hours.

Removal of the wash overhanging areas. Cleaning up vigrously.

Adding browns to the already cleaned up dark blues.

Cleaning up the blues and waiting for the browns.

Last traces of the browns ready for polishing up.

Top surfaces with vertical portions added with more dark browns in order to enhance the 3D profile of the beautiful plane.

I must say that I really loved the shape of this Trumpy outfit. Really sleek and graceful. Despite what people say of its misgivings, till now, I do not understand one bit nor I really cared, it stands out as one heck of a model to build just right out of the box alone! Till part three.....Tada.









Friday, November 25, 2016

1/48 Ukrainian Air Force Su24 Fencer D


When I first laid my eyes on the Fencer in digital camouflage of Ukraine, I told myself, if I can get the decals fine, otherwise, I will jump into the deep end and do it anyway! I hunted all over and found there is one company in Europe that plans to make this set. When I contacted them, they were still in the design stage and the owner Alexander was so kind to offer a set for me free, that means one thing, I have no more excuse to let this thing rot in my pile. Having bought this model 2 years ago, I finally had the courage to open it up, the size of it is daunting, filling up my table depth almost from end to end, as big as my 1.32 scale F16I!

Catch 22 of the whole episode is that it will be ready sometime next year. Exactly when, nobody knows except the owner. Well, I have a set of Su27 decals from Begemot that I can hijack, but for the stencils, I have no choice buy to rely on the kit's offering.

The cockpit area were printed funny, anyway, its quite obscure and I rather spend more of my time to do up the ejection seats where they are more visible.

Once the model goes through the usual paste and patch processes, scoring of the panels came in right at its heels. There after, I had to plan for the painting process. I scoured through many photos I downloaded as reference and Alexander sent me his two side profiles and top view. So, I gave the blacks on the cones with the usual dark blue from Mr. Colour, I did up the preshades with my favourite green as it will react with the colours on top to give off blue, pink and yellow hues later once I do my secret sauce layer blending process.
After first black blue grey coat, I masked the small patches and then over sprayed various patches using the lightest grey coat, Mr. Color 307 Light Ghost Grey, I leave to dry while I cut up the 5X5mm, 2.5X5mm, 2.5X2.5mm squares for the suffering that is to follow which resulted in this.

Even though there are only 4 colours it has to be done in 6 repeated masking procedures as there are islands of dark and light patches on the masked patched.

Light Ghost Grey covered, now for the 3rd colour, Medium Grey which I mixed to be darker to serve as base where I can highlight later with actual colour to bring some interesting elements to the otherwise, dull looking camouflage greys.

Medium Grey ready to go one.

The underwing areas where the darker shades will be spray one and will not be highlighted amking the natural lighting apparent and also give it a higher contrast.






The action station


The medium grey going on.

The bottom received light and dark ghost greys as well as some browns, some yellow, some greens and blues to give it a multiple hue effect.

Another closer look of the hue saturation layering I did.

The top was peeled away and given the highlights. I retarded those paints and diluted it very thinly, So, 3 coats are required to make it noticeable. Bearing in mind not to over do it otherwise the contrast will become too strong and will lose its beauty. Trick is to lower the pressure and limit the paint flow. Periodic back flushing is required to keep the airbrush clear of clogging.

The cockpit windscreen still showed a little fitting line. So I filled it up with my trusty liquid putty, 4 coats is enough to eliminate everything. Once dry and shrunk for 2 days, I can easily "sand" this off with cotton buds and ethanol. Then the area can be patched again with 307 Light Ghost Grey.

Once I am happy that the highlights are used to bring the aircraft tones to near the original colour hues, I went on to do some colour modulation on the vertical planes of the model using a bluish hue.

 
The knurls and vertical surfaces given the dark bluish hues to make the model a little bit more 3D. Some browns and yellows are also used to give it some tonal variations to the otherwise technically cold and dead paintwork.

All the hues coming to place. Then I used my secret sauce to blend the whole substrate together to settle the pigments and to allow the pre-shades to blend with the over-covering paint so that the surface becomes satin in finish as well as the lines and patches becomes a little bit more distinct.

Tamiya Tapes ahoy again. After the 20mm yellows are done, the 11mm blue is masked using the pre-cut concentric circle to mask it so that is accurately centred. the cut line is patched over using small 5mm squares to prevent leaks.

After unmasking. Some leaking is expected, but not un-fixable. So, we can always glaze it over with Vallejo paints and weather it makes it more natural when compared to using decals. I secret sauced this later to help it blend into the surface to form a smooth substrate without increasing paint thickness. You can notice the multiple coloured hues coming through the paintwork, This is what I like, to make it differently from the usual preshading, I like my colours to be multiple toned to give it a more interesting look.


Done, the roundrels. The tail shields also went on. Once this is dried overnight, I secret sauced the whole plane to cause everything to flatten. It also help the decal shield to melt into the surface to cause it to look like paint. The carrier film is also dissolved so that it becomes part of the paintwork too. What is the secret source? Its my own concoction of solvents that can be used on both Acrylic and Lacquer paints.

Till part Two, Bye for now

Norman